Paso my Robles

After many years of Northern California wine country trips (Napa, Sonoma, Russian River) I felt it was time to discover something a little farther south. ME had emailed me some articles from the front room (communication is the key to a good relationship), detailing a central California region that produces some of the most sought-after Zinfandel. Yes, Zin! My sister recently stopped there on her way back to S.F. had brought me a bottle of the most fantastic Zin I'd ever slurped. So it seemed that the stars were trying to lead me to Paso Robles.
Say it with me now, R-o-b-l-e-s. Nope, you said it wrong. It seems everybody that lives there says it like row-bulls. Why? I don't know. The real Spanish name is "el Paso de Robles," the pass of the Oaks. But what the hell do I know? I don't speak Spanish.
A few of our friends who grew up there have this to say, "Why are you going there? I got out of there as fast as I could." O.K. Broadway shows you're not going to get, but world class wine, you will. To a one, every winery we visited poured just terrific, creative, world-class wine. And this is definitely the place for Zin!
Here are the big winners in my first trip to the region. (note: this post is actually taking place months after my trip, so my memories of the tastings are fading... hey I have to work, you know.)

Zin Alley: The best Zin ever...EVER!! Complex, not as aggressive as the typical Zin, but full of luscious fruit with just a hint of spice (like cloves and pepper). If I were to serve this to you and not tell you what it was, you'd never guess Zinfandel. Frank Nerelli, the owner and winemaker, also makes an incredible Zinfandel Port, and a 100% botrytis sticky called After Hours (60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Blanc) that is absolutely the most developed, incredible "dessert wine" I have ever had outside of Sauternes, France. Get some!! Now! But you have to call him directly. He doesn't like wine clubs.

Norman Vineyards: Big, bad Zins, seriously jammy, but with more complexity than your average California Zin. The Gold Medal-winning 2003 Mephistopheles was my favorite here. My notes just read "Wow! wow!!"




Turley: The Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel was ex-cep-tio-nal!! Chocolate, blackberries, a hint of spice, and some stuff I just couldn't figure out. Yu-uh-uh-mee!




Linne Calado and L'Aventure: These two were the most original, creative and world class wines, and for the price, a real steal. The L'Aventure Optimus is very French in style (57% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 8% Petit Verdot) and is worth a lot more than the $45 a bottle it costs. But my favorite is the Syrah. Just straight-up Syrah. A bit dry, lots of pepper, tons of jammy, mouth-chewing goodness.


Linne Calado Sticks & Stones (57% Grenache, 23% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre) was some of the most creative stuff in Paso and his white, Contrarian (64% Roussanne, 36% Viognier) is my new favorite white ever.